The Redcoats Were Coming – A Review of Up in the Aether Steampunk Convention

Good evening, gentle readers.

I do hope that you have been enjoying the slow stroll into summer. It does seem that some days are warm and sunny while others are chill and grey, but such is the wont of Mother Nature particularly in Canada.

I simply must, and need, to let you know of an event that I attended recently that has reset the bar for all Steampunk fetes. I have attended many many conventions over the last three plus decades and DJed nearly countless events in about the same amount of time but Up in the Aether [UitA] has created new expectations and hopes for all such Steampunk Conventions [and I do need to attend more to see if they are ALL so incredible]. Both as a guest and as an attendee I found this convention to be incredible.

The weekend after our Victoria Day, accompanied by my noble and trustworthy soundman and fellow DJ, Danr, I traveled over the world’s longest undefended border to the city of Detroit to attend and DJ at Up in the Aether. I had recently relocated cities and so found the trip would now take a further four to five hours and, combined with my temporary financial situation due to moving cities and seeking common employ, I initially turned down the offer of being a guest. Mr. Wiggins, however, was very insistent and did a fantastic job of convincing me to set out on this adventure, and I am glad that he was so persuasive. And so we journeyed off to this four day happening as it was the weekend our Southron neighbours call Memorial Day Weekend.

There were occasional issues throughout the convention and I am sure others discovered challenges which I did not but it was how the convention folk dealt with these small things that made all the difference.

After a rather lengthy trip, with gratitude to our road construction workers and all those other drivers who felt a need to be on the road with no knowledge of how to drive properly in order to keep traffic flowing well, we arrived on the Friday evening at the Double Tree hotel in Dearborn, Michigan. Our room keys were presented promptly though, being guests, it took a touch of walking about and asking after various people to ensure we were properly tagged and badged and ready to enjoy the weekend.

They had wisely booked all of the DJs and bands together at one end of a hallway that we could make as much noise as we desired and so Saturday night we hosted a three-room room party with the Steampunk Mixologist and a reasonable bar [which shall grow next year] as well as music and conversation throughout the rooms and hallway.

It is estimated that between seven hundred and one thousand attendees accompanied us though due to the layout of the hotel and the large selection of panels, workshops, concerts and other attractions it never truly felt crowded: my own guess was that perhaps four hundred or so had strolled through the door.

There were, methinks, about a half dozen or more tracks of panels and workshops including writing and publishing [with readings by several authors], clothing and fashion [of course], food and alcohol and tobacco [with sampling], a well supplied makers’ room with ongoing discussions and teachings, Steampunk socials, a Port Party, a room dedicated to Self Defence particularly as regards sky pirates, and many, many more. There was constantly something interesting happening. Outside in a spacious tent was a near constant line up of incredible musicians, bands and DJs including Voltaire, Eli August, and many others ranging from Steampunk duets to a Steampunk Heavy Metal band.

The dealers’ room simply must be mentioned: it was a reasonable size to not take an entire afternoon to explore, was never so crowded that one could not walk comfortably and was filled with such high quality fare end to end that I boggled. The offerings were varied and diverse and of exquisite craftsmanship. Incredibly desirable. I believe I spent my entire month’s pay-cheque seven times over, fortunately only in my thoughts but next year I shall attend with a large amount of coin of the realm.

There was a kaleidoscope of clothing from the simple day-wear to intricate evening fare. There were uniforms [it was VERY pleasing to find three others sporting the Queen’s Scarlet besides myself and my companion], work clothing and sporting-wear, brass and steel bits, and a very wide range of appearances.

If you desire then you can find the pictures here:
https://www.facebook.com/djthelf.thelf/media_set?set=a.10152869105880024.1073741827.797510023&type=3
[And do note that though ’tis my Facebook all pictures are set to public access so everyone can enjoy them! I would also like to state that I am not a photographer but I do try]

The DJing was extremely fun particularly when all four guest DJs faced off on the Sunday night at Midnight to provide hours of dancefloor energy. It was an honour, a privilege and a definite pleasure to work with gorgeous and talented DJ Psycubus, the genial and skilled Doctor Q and the intense, brilliant, and accomplished Vorteque. I have played with, for and beside many great DJs in North America but these folk, these incredible, artistic people, in a modern vernacular, bring it!

If you are interested in knowing what songs I, personally, played throughout the weekend then you can find them here:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/DJ-ThElf/324307224252503?ref=hl

Those who spent time in the Music Tent enjoyed the offerings muchly, particularly Voltaire on Saturday night and the “Steampunk Rave” on Sunday night. The dancefloor was wonderfully delicious.

The staff: the organizers, the wranglers, the helpers, the committee; were to a single person the most incredible group I have ever had the joy of working both for and with. Nothing was impossible. We were treated like royalty, truly. The Guest Wrangling Matron, an exquisite lady I knew only as “V”, had a team who were beyond awesome in being informative and helpful. Any issue, anything requested, any question or need was met by V’s motto: “I Have This.” She owned her department and every situation that came her way. Her staff would stop, in passing in the hallway, even as they were arms-loaded with items to ask if there was anything we needed or any way they could assist. I am oft treated very well but V and her people offered a level of service that was beyond stunning. And throughout the convention I saw this style and level of service provided to guests and attendees at every level and in every capacity.

We left tired and sore from watching the sun rise each and every morning, from dancing like fools and maniacs to many bands and DJs, from learning at panels and watching incredible low budget/high production independent movies and from the high energy socializing. We left leaving behind friends and new family. We left knowing that in a year’s time we will return and nothing can stop us from doing so.

I do not know that I have enough positive and glowing adjectives to properly convey how amazing this convention was.

Next year, good reader, when you are planning your convention schedule and wondering where you should visit and what you should commit to pen in your daytimer I must insist that you give Up in the Aether your strongest and most serious consideration. Do come find us and I shall happily hoist a glass with you at the most amazing event of the year.

H.A. Higgins-Keith

Every Journey Begins with a Single Step

Good afternoon, gentle readers. Oh, I know, several posts in a same month! I do hope that I am not causing undue shock and surprise.

I was asked, recently, what a new entrant to the Steampunk community can do about building an appropriate wardrobe: what to look for and where to find it. As this blog focuses primarily on fashions for males that is where I shall stay, though many of my suggestions will also be applicable to the ladies.

An easy way to start is to shop in October at many used clothing, costume or party stores where you will find mass produced boxes stamped “Steampunk Costume” of some form or another. Taking parts or the whole of what is within said box and adding your personal flair to it is a fast, inexpensive way to create something that will allow you to step, fully outfitted, into your first Steampunk affair. From there will come suggestions, ideas and thoughts that will swiftly and easily build your wardrobe in an individualistic manner.

One of the first things one can consider is a popular statement that “jeans are period.” Well… yes and no. Denim or dungaree [both cotton based] cloth was used to make trousers from the late 18th century and the 1600s, respectively, and onwards, often dyed blue with an indigo dye. The fabric used was MUCH thicker, stiffer and more coarse than the material used in jeans today. It was specifically used for heavy wear workers clothing as well as long wear trousers in the American mid-west so ’tis best suited to Grease Monkeys and Dustpunks [the Wild Wild West sorts]. Rivets must be done in copper if you’re going with the classic jeans look and the fly must be buttoned. The zipper, as we know it, was not invented until 1937 for trouser flies and though some may point at ‘zippers’ being around since the mid 1800s they were very very different beasts and were not used for clothing [initially they were for boots and tobacco pouches]. Zippers are therefore not period if you are playing a period role. For those who enjoy a modern day Steampunk or a post-apocalyptic character then Bob’s your uncle!

While many will point at various articles of clothing or accessories as the perfect starting point I would rather say that there are MANY places to begin, yet one stands out above all others for me: the hat. During the Victorian period and indeed until the mid 20th century men wore hats. Fedoras, top hats, bowlers, boaters and more. From the right hat an entire outfit can easily flow. More and more millineries [hat stores] have been appearing in major cities over the last half decade and shopping for the proper topper has gotten much easier for the gentlemen. Feel free to try on various hats in order to ascertain which one works best with the structure of your face and your hair. Different hats will impart different appearances. Vintage hats can oft be found in military surplus stores, vintage clothing shops and previously loved clothing stores. A little research on the internet can educate you both on hat etiquette [something I have written on in a previous blog entry] as well as proper care of one’s headwear.

After the hat one of the most important additions to one’s wardrobe is the waistcoat or vest. Again there are many stores which offer a selection of vests to match any outfit. Three piece suits and vests have become popular again and thus many modern haberdasheries will carry a selection. Do ensure that it has a pocket for your watch. Single breasted, double breasted, collared or uncollared, several vests will enhance any gentleman’s wardrobe.

Goggles are oft mentioned as a mainstay and item of note for Steampunks but I would put forth that one should have a reason for one’s goggles to cover both their use and their design. Finding a good pair of goggles is a bit more of a trick and will involve hunting in hardware stores, military surplus stores, vintage shops and all over. There are tutorials on YouTube to make your own or enhance the plain goggles you have purchased.

Accessories are important and, for the gentleman, the selection during the Victorian period was exquisite: cufflinks, pocketwatches and fobs, handkerchiefs, ties and ascots, monocles, glasses, tie pins, brooches, arm/sleeve garters and more. Form and fashion were important as, much like the large and expensive personal automobile of the last several decades, one’s accessories told the world of your success and standing.

A final note on colour: take it or leave it as you wish but do read your history before doing so. In the first half of the Victorian era there was a lot of colour and it was riotous. Dyes were being discovered and blended frequently and fabrics were experimented on and with. People combined checks and stripes, they wore palettes of colours which were bright and clashing, and they reveled in their clothing. Then a combination of circumstances changed everything around 1861. The most notable and best defined change was the death of Prince Albert, Victoria’s consort. With both the passing of the Queen’s mother and her consort that year the Queen dressed in mourning clothing for most of the rest of her life. And the public will oft replicate the trends set by royalty so much public-wear for men was in somber colours. Additionally the great amount of industry, most of it supplied by coal-burning power, resulted in a high level of pollution, smog and particulates in the air. Clothing of grey or darker colours did not show the ash and dirt as much as did the bright colours. More vibrant colours were still worn but primarily in the home or for special occasions such as picnics, outings in the country and vacations abroad. At home and at work most gentlemen sported a primarily darker wardrobe with accents of colour. So never let anyone else dictate that your wardrobe needs more or less colour in it, it is entirely upon your own preference and your vision for your character.

As for building a particular look or wardrobe there are two ways to go about it, I find. One can easily google “Steampunk” or something similar and take ideas from pictures. The other method, and the one I find more enjoyable and more interesting, is to attend a Steampunk gather or event even if you are just in jeans and a tshirt [and do note that t-shirts are not period and should disappear from your wardrobe as soon as possible] and ASK other well dressed folk where they obtained their clothing. Trust me on this: Steampunks LOVE to talk about what they’re wearing and where they found it. You can easily create an outfit or three from your very first event.

I find that many people are confused, hesitant and worried about their first Steampunk outfit and the subsequent wardrobe yet such concern is truly without foundation. There will ALWAYS be someone willing to point you in the right direction.

H.A. Higgins-Keith

Toronto’s Best Kept Convention Secret

I attend many conventions through a regular year. Most of the conventions that I frequent are, naturally, Science Fiction/Fantasy affairs and most occur in Canada though I am always happy to amble across the border to enjoy our southern cousins’ offerings.

There is one convention, however, which I find to be an absolute favourite. Not an easy thing to select given the enjoyment, the entertainment, the wonders and the peoples that I find at all the conventions which I am able to attend, but this one particular convention seems to have the rightness that I, personally, look for in a gathering: Ad Astra.

Ad Astra is a general science fiction/fantasy convention with a very heavy focus on the literary side of things. Thirty-two years of age, she has had her lean years and her fat but she has always offered an incredible experience and this year no less so than any other.

First of all one must look at the people and the social adventure. The folk are friendly and welcoming, they are fun and intelligent and always up for an intriguing discussion. There are many many room parties as well as a convention hospitality suite of a large size and excellent placement and, for the special guests, a green room that offers a wonderful place to sit and chat. Alcohol is abundant but handled in a very mature manner [and for those visitors from the United States may I note that our drinking age here in Ontario is 19!] Conversations break out in rooms, hallways, the smoking area, the parking garage and anywhere that two or more fen meet. It has a relaxed atmosphere which encourages an atmosphere of greater fun and less stress than some conventions I have been to.

Ad Astra is one of the few conventions at which I enjoy meeting the special guests as none here are pretentious or standing atop a pedestal and all seem more than pleased to be able to chat with anyone and everyone. This year’s included Jim Butcher, Stephen Hunt, and Ben Bova as well as a host of other wonderful people among which were to be found Guy Gavriel Kay, Julie E. Czerneda, Kelley Armstrong and Robert J. Sawyer. And many were the writers and creative peoples of all ilk and diversity.

The dealers’ room was well layed out and balanced, presenting books, collectibles, jewellery, clothing and many other items in a neat, compact area. Selection was varied and prices were more than fair.

There are readings, tastings, anime screenings, and gaming as well as a broad selection of panels including relevant fashion design [from corsets to costumes], quite a few on writing [from how to write to crowdsourcing to promoting to finding an agent and more], several steampunk topics, some science, prop making and current trends and topics.

Two items of special note:

The masquerade is well run and not at all large with, generally, about a dozen entrants. This is the perfect place to strut your stuff for the first time in front of an audience who loves to be entertained as well as a great venue for showing off your masterpiece to a very focused group. With Ad Astra occurring at the start of the SF Convention season it’s also the perfect place to test drive your new costume and presentation.

The karaoke on Friday night was just pure fun and those who know me also know that I tend to dislike karaoke quite a bit. However the host, the song selections and the singers made it a perfect way to wrap up the evening before hitting the room parties. I must admit that I truly enjoyed it.

Overall I must highly recommend this convention to anyone who is interested in being a writer, to everyone who enjoys a good social weekend and to all fen who just like a darned excellent convention. I would, and do, offer Ad Astra a very solid 8 out of 10 with their expressed intent to continue improving until they reach the pinnacle.

H.A. Higgins-Keith

[For more information do feel free to visit their website at http://www.ad-astra.org/ ]

One Must Always Watch One’s Words

Good evening, mesdames et monsieurs.

I do thank you for your patience. Life, once again, has gotten away from me. But enough prattle and whine…

Recently I attended a Comic Con held in my new city of residence. It was well attended, boasted quite a few excellent guests, offered an expansive dealers’ room and some very interesting panels. Among the superheroes, the stormtroopers, the apes and daleks and robots and graphic novel characters there were some extremely wonderful steampunk folk.

I ensured that I made it to two of the panels on steampunk: Steampunk 101 and Steampunk Clothing.

I have a slight issue with Steampunk 101 classes having been involved with such for six years and counting at this point. Where are the following courses? Where is Steampunk 201 [So You’re Steampunk, Now What?], Steampunk 301 [The Devil IS in the Details] and the advanced Steampunk 401 [Etiquette Both Personal and Social as Embedded in the Steampunk Subculture] as well as the off shoots into the -02. -03 and onwards? Steampunk has been embraced by the media and the mainstream, something oft heard complained about, and most everyone knows what it is at the basic level: that which is taught in the 101 courses.

I was very pleased with some of this particular course as it did wander through the geo-centricity and temporal focus of the subculture and kicked those doors wide. But there were two points that niggled.

The smallest of the pair, which bothers me only a little, is when people talk about the ‘punk’ in Steampunk without experience or proper knowledge of the punk period and movement. Having lived through it, in it, and around it myself, I must admit that it rankles when Steampunks offer their ‘expert opinion’ on the ‘punk’ facet without actually having a solid grounding in what they are speaking of. But this part of the 101 was easily passed through and over.

The large, and by large I mean elephantine, shock was a statement made by one of the presenters; a gentleman from Montreal. He said, and I paraphrase but it is very close to his exact wording as I remember “The only way to do Steampunk wrong, I tell people, is to buy the box of prefab Steampunk outfit made by the big mainstream corporation with the Steampunk label stamped across the box.”

And to this I must say: Nonsense! Piffling nonsense. Nonsense from both sides and the middle. And unfortunately some people new to Steampunk may have listened to him and will now have the wrong approach.

It is indeed possible to “do” Steampunk incorrectly without buying in bulk. I often tell people who wish to experiment that they should try things and see how others respond. If it is met with frowns and whispers then hie thee back to the drawing board. If it is greeted with smiles and applause then it is successful.

And those boxes sold in chain stores, filled with plastic and cheap fabric bits, with the brazen “Steampunk” stamp boldly printed across the cover? Yes indeed, do feel free to purchase one of those if ’tis your first foray into the community.

It is apparent to me that the gentleman I have paraphrased has never heard the term ‘gateway’.

The goth/industrial subculture was little known and less understood until Trent Reznor’s “Closer” and Marilyn Manson’s stage theatrics and marketing creation. While both are pooh-poohed by most members of the g/i community it did introduce new blood to the clubs and the coffee shops, it brought new folk to the music and the fashion, it continued to inject life into the genre and the aesthetic.

The most common reason I hear for why someone has not made a steampunk gather is that they do not have an outfit. If buying a prefabricated outfit in a box allows them to make that first step into the community, if it allows them to walk into their first gather then I say huzzah to the retailer who supplies them this needed item. From that first step in the new entrant can THEN be offered advice, can learn of sources and styles, can begin developing their own aesthetic and build their own wardrobe. But without that first step, without the gateway then the new blood will not be maximized.

The speaker obviously did not consider access, income and creativity which is not offered equally to all people. He, perhaps unwittingly, has set up a group of steampunks for ridicule: those ‘poor’ folk who start with a box kit. He has pretty much said “you, you ‘real’ steampunks, may look down your nose at those people who purchase it as a boxed set, as they are doing it wrong.”

Can one do Steampunk wrong? I think yes, though I would more use the term ‘incorrectly’ than to say wrongly. Is what is wrong to be found in a box in a large retail location? I do not think it is that easy.

And again I say stuff and nonsense.

H.A. Higgins-Keith

Perceiving A Book By Its Cover

Good morning, gentle readers.

I do trust that your winter, where-ever this season should find you, has begun in fun and adventure. And for those of you what celebrate Yule I hope ’tis a joyous one and promises you the next year will be one of wonderful things.

While I have been, at times, serious in my tone and my content I have also attempted to keep things light and friendly. I find humour is an excellent thing to keep the conversation enjoyable and the occasional chuckle makes discussion more vibrant. Today, though, I am going to write on a topic that has been making me increasingly angry. It is a topic I have touched upon before [please reference “Around the World in 80 Minutes” from September of 2011] and I’m afraid that this time I am going to be firm.

Please keep your misperceived white-guilt political correctness out of my Steampunk. Oh, dear reader, I shall freely admit to being strongly opinionated in many things but there is a certain oft presented point that truly stokes the furnaces of my ire. There are enough gender arguments, heated discussions of the socio-political Victorian influences in Steampunk, and other poorly stated comments to truly make a person wonder, at times, just why they may ever do more than just show up in appropriate dress, sit quietly with a tea in a corner, and go home after the poetry reading without ever speaking to another. And yes, things I’ve heard uttered in sincerity such as “Steampunk is where goth discovered brown” and “Steampunk is… well, have you seen ‘Wild Wild West’?” both get my dander up but this one topic truly makes me wonder.

It is something I have heard fair frequently and tonight it began with a gentleman stating: “It’s been my experience that us whites only understand cultural appropriation and could never grasp multiculturalism. (joking.. kinda)”

I call complete and utter PC bullshit on this, pardon my language, ladies.

Much like many of the other subcultures in North America and Europe the Steampunk community is, in the majority, Caucasian. I know a handful of folk from different ethnic backgrounds but it is, indeed, a group that is primarily what is called “White” [though in all honesty I am still sometimes confused by the term “White” and muchly prefer Caucasian, thank you very much]. This is true of the goth/industrial as it was and still is of the punk subcultures. It is true of the science fiction/fantasy fen and convention goers. Strangely, though perhaps not, I also find it true of the North American anime/manga subcultures though here my experience is only truly from a handful of cities and a couple of conventions. This is likely a geographically influenced occurrence as I have no doubt that the various subcultures in Japan, for example, are primarily populated by Asians.

So let us speak of cultural appropriation, shall we? And, as this deals with Steampunk, let us look at the Victorian era.

As has been pointed out to me by a very intelligent and learned young lady during my earlier writing there was a fascination among the Caucasians of this period with those things that belonged to other cultures. The Victorian era saw world travel and exploration as it had never been before. Dark areas on map were being explored and opened up. Adventure was available for those who could afford the time and money and it was written about to be shared with everyone who could read [or be read to]. It was a time of excitement. Archaeology was truly established during the reign of Queen Victoria and the fascination with history and past cultures was equaled by the fascination with current cultures that were not “our own.” And it was a two way street, ladies and gentlemen.

Trade flowed around the world and thus trinkets, keep-sakes, artwork, fabrics and materials danced between countries. Indian silk, Chinese fans, African carvings, Egyptian antiques, paintings of Indians [in talking with several who I count among my many friends I’ve discovered lately that most do not like the term “Native Americans” though I’ve yet to discuss the why of it] and many other interesting ‘foreign items’ poured into the heart of the British Empire through her vast trade networks. And things British flowed out.

The visiting Briton appeared often to the members of other countries as a very successful creature. He had tools of metal, clothing of strange fabrics and intricacies, amazing medicines, machines that performed astounding feats and created amazing things.

Take a few minutes and, rather than just relying on my words, do some research. Google is a good place to start though your local library is possibly better for it. Look for pictures from the Victorian era and focus on those photographed or painted in and from other countries. You will see many non-Caucasian peoples sporting top hats, waistcoats, morning coats, tailcoats and carrying walking sticks and parasols. They did this in imitation and in respect to the “powerful people of the mighty British Empire.” The thought was, and it is still true today, that to dress like a successful man was to become a successful man or to, at least, gain respect from other successful men. The British, during this period, were seen as the most successful, particularly by those who had less. The British Empire was powerful so it is not a surprise that others desired to be a part of that, to gain some of that power for themselves and to do so they imitated what they saw.

And yet by our own definition this was and is “cultural appropriation.”

Oh, indeed you will see pictures of British military wearing turbans and other ‘native’ headwear of different ethnicities, or sporting a very non-British outfit. In many cultures trading was a sign of friendship, of welcoming, with personal gifts being exchanged. The British caught on to this and headwear was oft traded with natives of other countries.

Who could resist a few mementos to bring home after a long military or trading tour? In our modern world it is often photographs or post-cards or little tourist-junk that is brought home from vacation as a reminder of the fun, the adventure. At the least during the Victorian era what was brought home wasn’t made in some factory by underpaid labourers.

Besides the exchange there were two other reasons for Caucasians of that period to ‘appropriate’ the ‘native appearance.’

The first was simple geography and, resulting from that, climate. Standard British wear during this period tended to be multiple layers and those layers were mostly either linen, cotton or, more popularly, wool. I have worn a British uniform on the kind of hot day one may experience in India, in southern Spain, in the middle Americas and it is not at all comfortable. The native fabrics and clothing styles took climate into account, naturally. I have worn a Victorian gentleman’s attire in 90 degree heat and it was not pleasant, and I found myself longing for the flowing, cooling robes of an Arabian.

The second was called “going native.” Again, I would recommend doing a little bit of Google research and you will find that though this is now perceived as not being common, it happened frequently enough to be, at times, a concern. While particularly an occurrence in North America it also happened in many other countries of the world including Russia, India, Egypt, Africa, and most of Asia. Going native was often voluntary in the case of adventurers or military who became either enamoured of the culture in which they were placed or who “deserted” their company for one reason or another. It also happened that, through some tragedy, a young Caucasian would be raised by native parents in some country and thus would grow up acclimated to that culture.

Is a Caucasian who joins a culture therefore guilty of appropriating the trappings of that culture?

It was more cultural exchange and less appropriation.

Let us see. Appropriation – ap·pro·pri·a·tion [/əˌprōprēˈāSHən/] Noun: The action of taking something for one’s own use, typically without the owner’s permission.

And if permission is tacitly given or understood through action? Who gives permission for an entire culture? With historic precedence set is there a need for permission?

As a closing note I have spoken with several people of non-Caucasian culture and ethnicity and they see nothing wrong with a Caucasian steampunk dressing up in a non-British period outfit or adding non-British touches as long as it is done tastefully and with respect. It seems an almost purely Caucasian thing to call someone out on “cultural appropriation” and it is, I feel, not our place to do so.

Finally, I am going to quote myself from that September writing: “However, I would note that if you do decide to add in some item or style belonging to another culture that you are aware of what it is you are wearing, the why of it, and how to explain it respectfully. There are those who get upset with past issues [even though there are enough current issues that they do not seem to care for so much] that in public one MAY be approached and called on the borrowed bits.
There is nothing wrong with exploring other options than the most often seen British/American characterizations from the Victorian period in your Steampunk wardrobe and presentation. Just remember it is to be both fun and respectful.”

Be well, good readers, and I hope that you enjoy a wonderful holiday season, a joyful Yule, a merry Christmas, a happy Hanukkah, a fantastic solstice or whatever it is that you celebrate at this time of year.

H.A. Higgins-Keith

The Very Model

Oh my. Apparently I’ve several months to apologize for. Well, I am sorry, dear readers [both of you *chuckle*] for having been away so very long. Many adventures have been had and I have survived each and every one, both good and bad. And soon I shall be off on another. But this evening I am here.

Anyone who actually knows me also knows that I collect uniforms, particularly those with a vintage appearance, and I wear them in public. There are a variety of uniforms available to the Neo-Victorian man: military, police, fireman and more. So is there truth to the saying that “women adore a man in uniform”?

My research has shown that it is mostly true. While there are those ladies who apparently do not find a uniform to be appealing or to be an addition which increases the attractiveness of a man there are more who do. Were I to roughly guess the ratio I would put it at around two-thirds finding a uniformed man more attractive.

Here are eight reasons which were offered by an author and a lady:

A man in a uniform knows how to look after himself. (Who wants to be some guy’s mother?)
A man in a uniform knows how to bathe, shave, and dress himself (I’m not saying the rest of you don’t . . .).
A dress uniform is flattering to the male figure (Ooh-YAH!).
An officer is a gentleman (or at least has really good tablemanners).
The whole demeanor of a man in dress blues, or whites, or whatever is confident and dependable. Very Sexy.
Since a man in uniform knows all about responsibility and duty, he could well be counted on to take out the garbage. Theoretically, at least.
Any military unit that has had to serve in a combat zone anywhere in the world (yep–even in Norn Irn) comes back changed. These men (if not too deeply disturbed by their experiences) (and my heart goes out to all vets of any combat anywhere who go home broken, either physically or mentally) know the value of a sunset. Or a sunrise.
Other uniforms, not just military, work just as well, if the training behind the spit and polish is as extensive. Who is more welcome at an accident scene that a paramedic or a fireman? Women know that they will be rescued by these substitutions for knights in shining armor.

The uniformed man is presented as our ‘modern’ knight in shining armour. Oft the ladies also mention his fitness, his attractive shape and muscular form. There is described a ‘safety’ feeling or a knowledge that a man in uniform will protect a lady or, if she needs, rescue her. And there are wanderings into Mr. Darwin’s realm supposing that a lady looks for the best provider, the alpha male, and that those in uniforms are obviously that sort.

Let us look at the uniform first, shall we?

Beginning with the tunic, that most important part of a uniform ensemble, I have oft stated that a properly fitted military jacket is to a man much as a corset is to a woman: if forces the shoulders back, the spine straight, the chest out and the stomach in. The high collar keeps one’s head up to enhance the posture. The colours of the Victorian military man were often fairly bright and flashy due to a need to see the troops through the fog of war [also known as the dark power smoke of fired weapons] and thus reds, blues, yellows and greens were all popular. Add in trim of gold, silver or copper and other shiny accessories along with dark leather belts and one has an eye catching outfit. During the Victorian era the officers had their own uniforms tailored specifically which, as anyone knows, enhances the appearance, the drape, the fit of a garment.

The pants are usually creased and without pleats, fitting snugly to the waist, thighs and legs. This can make a man look taller than he is, particularly from a distance. Stripes to match or complement the tunic colour also help gain one notice. Generally speaking the pants also did not have pockets which means no unsightly bulges from wallets, keys or what have you. Necessaries were carried in pouches on the belt.

For an officer, in particular, high boots brightly polished and well fitted were necessary. Once again this creates a longer and leaner look of the body. And boots have that particular sound on hard surfaces, a sound that brings many of us back to our fathers, to parades, to marching. It is a strong and aggressive sound.

Add in gloves of snug leather and the appropriate hat and one is set. A uniformed man must know all about hat etiquette which his a showy practice in itself.

Military fashion has oft and long influenced the fashions of civilians. Men’s facial hair has oft been dictated by veterans in an attempt to look more like those who have returned from ‘doing their duty for Queen and country.’ During the Victorian era lady’s riding outfits were very militaristic in cut, buttons and accessories oft including a pelisse for cooler weather, gloves and hat of a distinctly uniform look.

The suit of this modern age owes much to the uniforms of the past as many women will admit that a man looks better in a well tailored suit, and a proper suit is a form of uniform for the working man. Naturally I prefer a three piece suit with waistcoat but even a two piece can, if properly fitted, add to a gentleman’s attractiveness.

Speaking for my self and my self only there is something about putting on a good suit or, particularly, a uniform. The snugness of the clothing which requires that I stand straight in good posture, the many buttons requiring individual attention all shining brightly, pulling on the boots, ensuring that each piece is as it should be: in good state, clean and sharp; all together it adds to my self confidence. A uniform is not a quick to throw on outfit and takes attention and care to ensure that each piece is properly set which means I must attend to my self and my appearance in detail. Together, once that last button is done up and my throat clasp is closed, I walk taller and feel more in control of my own world and self.

There are patterns about for uniforms though they can be difficult to find at times. Military surplus stores sometimes offer vintage uniforms or outfits of a vintage appearance though do shop around for the best price as some stores set a very high value on such things. For daily wear worry not if a uniform is authentic or a reproduction as both will look excellent and only the ‘experts’ truly care.

In conclusion I must say that to any Steampunk gentleman or Victorian re-enactor a good uniform is a must have for the wardrobe.

Here is hoping that I am not so tardy in my next posting.

H.A. Higgins-Keith

A Little Midnight Mental Meandering.

Good morning, dear readers.

I truly must apologize for my absence of late but the real world has been demanding much of my attention of late and thus the virtual world suffers. And, to be quite honest, I’m not sure on what I should write next particularly with regard to men’s fashion or etiquette or some such topic. Have you any suggestions? Is there anything that you are wondering? Shall I write next on ties and ascots? Perhaps on styles of jackets? Or of the military look in fashion and its constant resurgences?

While you ponder that I do believe that I shall take a moment to explain a little bit more about my own thoughts with regard to politics. I oft state quietly that I am a somewhat right leaning imperialistic bastard. Now this is not totally true as my parents were indeed married well before my birth. Nor do I always and constantly favour imperialism as much as I am a bit of a monarchist at heart.

Why am I a monarchist? Well, I suppose it is time for me to once more blow a breeze up some petticoats as I have read some very strong anti-monarchist writings in the last few weeks what with it being Elizabeth’s Diamond anniversary of her rule.

Let us look at the ‘government du choix’ that is waved about like a flag in this current age: democracy. While communism and anarchy both have strong numbers of supporters it is obvious that neither work in large groups and with the breakdown of the U.S.S.R. we are now, globally, frequently all and only about democracy. Most democracies aren’t, but are rather more along the lines of a strange form of representative republic or polyarchy. I apologize for digressing.

The basic theory behind the democracy is that every individual of a certain age is permitted the vote to determine the government because we should all know what our country needs. This would be at least a little reasonable if everyone who was allowed to voted but they do not. Speaking very generally the voter turnout is usually quite abysmal which is extremely unfortunate. As a result the elected government is not truly a representation of the voters as much as it is a representation of the voters who actually got off their duffs and took the small bit of time to go show some identification and check off a small box.

The second problem I have with democracy is that it believes that an idealistic student, a farmer focused on his life’s style, a business owner and I all have the same knowledge of politics and the issues of our country and will vote for the ‘best candidate’. This is not so. We will vote based on the tried and tested ‘popularity contest’ method based on who we like which is often and regularly an emotional and subjective thing. I will not vote as the idealistic student would because I have experienced more of the world, more of our country and more of our government and am, at heart, a realist even if an optimistic one. I understand that fast change can bring damage and that my own priorities are not those of the country. I shall not vote necessarily as the farmer would as I am not a farmer and have a different focus to my own personal world and life though I do have farmers in my family so we may have many similar thoughts. I likely know more about the politics of my country than does a business owner who has no time to keep up with what is happening as I do have the time to keep myself reasonably informed. So we get together all of the idealistic students, all of the farmers, all of the business owners and all of me and we get a government determined by whom, exactly. It becomes a numbers game if everyone votes. But they do not. Thus it becomes a random and unpredictable numbers game. Democracy assumes that we are all rational, well informed and intelligent and unfortunately this is not so, particularly in large groups.

A further personal frustration that I experience with democracy is the limitations placed on terms of office both in the time permitted and the frequency allowed. The long term must be taken into account and many of the better plans are not easily accomplished in two to four years or perhaps, if one is elected a second time or even a third, in the time allowed. One can indeed see this occurring in many countries where changes are abrupt and short term with little thought as to the effects that will be felt in the next decade or the next generation. There are and have been some very wise politicians and some very well organized political parties who have been able to effect long term change somewhat but this is very, very rare. And speaking strictly of my own country, Canada, I would like my fellows to consider how many good Prime Ministers we have had in the last three decades. I frequently hear how few there were, if any. Insisting on a time limit merely makes people feel rushed to make quick changes now. The good ones pop up and are swiftly gone replaced by someone who is not necessarily able.

Democracy also tends to foster self serving agendas and greed. A politician has an expiry date and thus the approach is frequently to get as much as one can while one is in office. Most have forgotten that it is a service and it is about serving the country and its peoples. Elections are more frequently mud slogging, cat calling, finger pointing contests in which one tries to make the other sides look bad rather than trying to make one’s own side look good.

Onward to monarchy and to match each of my previous points.

A monarch is, one would expect and hope, properly raised and educated to know about the country one is a monarch of. Their entire life is aimed at knowing what the country needs and desires and how to make its people prosperous and powerful. A trust is given and fair treatment is expected. I am aware this is not a deal that is always held to but we are speaking in generalities at the moment so do please wander down this path with me for a few moments more and continue reading. Monarchs have but a small group of other monarchs to know and have years and decades to get to know each the other’s particular characteristics, strengths, flaws and quirks. Many monarchs are related and thus, as in any family, while you do get the bad you get all the wonderful parts of family as well. While in a democracy an ambassador may need to learn about a new President every four years a monarch may be involved in their country or sit a throne for decades allowing a familiarity and comfort in working with them.

A monarch should and does, in good instances, care about the idealistic student, the farmer, the business owner and I but also knows how to balance all of our needs and concerns so that while none of us wins at the expense of the others it is equally true that none of us loses. A monarch can hand pick a team to assist in the running of the country and this team shall both be unlimited in term and be of like mind in serving the needs of the country and its people. And if one of the team is ineffective or damaging it is fairly easy and simple to shuffle them out and bring in someone who is beneficial. I would expect that the monarch knows much more about running the country and dealing with other countries than would the idealistic student, the farmer, the business owner or myself.

A monarch has no real expiry date save through natural or unnatural causes be it death, revolution or accident. Or even simply desire. A good monarch, such as the Queens Victoria or Elizabeth II, Louis XIV, Meiji, or Suleiman I may last decade after decade continuing to have a beneficial impact on their country, steering it towards greatness. Indeed there have been bad and wicked monarchs and a few have lasted quite some time atop their thrones but many were forced to remove themselves or were ousted through one means or another. Revolting against democracy is, as we are discovering currently, a very very difficult thing to do short of an actual civil hot-war.

Yes indeed, I recognize that there have been monarchs who have been wicked, wicked people or who have been mentally unstable but one can say much the same of politicians in a democratic system. And once again I would like to point out that sometimes removal of a damaging monarch is ever so much easier than the removal of a damaging democratic representative or party.

A monarch, and the goods ones are like this I believe, is raised with the awareness that what they do in service to their country is a service. They are not really the top of the pyramid as much as they are the base on which the pyramid rests [imagine flipping the pyramid upside down so that it rests on its pointy little peak]. They are there for their country and not for themselves. While there are monarchs who have forgotten this there are those who never neglected this philosophy.

I shall leave you with three little thoughts that are mine.

I actually think that a proper representative republic which combines a monarch with an elected assembly, each to watch the other, is a rather stable and solid way to govern a country. It allows the people to have their voices heard, it offers checks and balances and it gives the benefits of both systems. Short of a benevolent dictatorship this is, in my own small opinion, the best form of government in a real world.

I am right leaning as I believe that a small government should be given the powers that it needs to do its job without all of us busybodies who have no true idea of how to run a country sticking our noses in and buggering up the works. If you think you could do better than the politicians than please do run for office. Do you appreciate people coming into your workplace and complaining, pointing out how to properly do your job and making constant noise? I would think not, yet this is what we constantly do with our own governments. I do agree, however, that with power comes responsibility and our elected governments act too often like children with a key to the candy store. I do not wish to run my country nor any other and I do not wish to have to keep checking on those that do. Apparently, though, I am strange in my trust of other people to do their tasks in a reasonable manner.

I frequently hear about those who have moved to Canada from other country and wish to become citizens complaining that they will not take the oath because the Queen is in it. This is Canada. The Queen is part of our history and part of our government in a certain manner. If you do not wish to take the oath required to become a citizen then don’t become a citizen. There are many other countries who do not have a monarch involved and perhaps you should look at becoming a citizen in one of those.

And again I shall ask, dear reader, what shall I write on next that you may avoid reading my own strange approach and thoughts on politics [or making tenuous connections between such writings and Steampunk only because Queen Victoria was mentioned].

H.A. Higgins-Keith

Every Inch.

Good evening, dear readers, and thank you for your patience with my inconsistent writing schedule. I am oft away from the keys on some adventure or another but when I have time, as I do know, then I shall continue to scribble out my small thoughts as I may in hopes that you enjoy them.

I have noted recently that much of my writing is advice on what to wear or how to comport one’s self or perhaps how to set a room in your house. In this I am offering advice, to be taken or left as you wish, in how to appear to be a gentleman. This is also, I have learned, called being a “surface gentleman.” I wish to correct this disservice tonight and look at what it is to be a gentleman beyond merely the surface.

There are many in today’s modern North American society both walking the streets and within the various subcultural groups [though my focus is generally on the Steampunk folk] who are surface gentlemen. What man would ever admit to being rude or uncaring, without empathy or sympathy, that he swears or spits, or that he may ever treat another person improperly or without respect? None would ever say that they are like this and yet the world is full of examples of just such behaviour. Men misrepresent themselves as gentlemen often to colleagues and friends in an attempt to gain standing and respect and even more often to women in order to allure and intrigue. Many are the ladies I hear who bemoan the lack of gentlemen and whom seek one of their own. So I shall look at commonly accepted characteristics and behaviours of gentlemen to see if I can shed a little light on what it is that makes a male so.

Much like the etiquette of hat wearing there is quite a bit written both on and off the internet on being a gentleman and there appears to be no hard and fast rule to “what is a gentleman?” But there are frequently agreed upon characteristics. It is not all, nor merely, the holding of doors or chairs. There are several traits which seem agreed on by nearly all and a fair bit of disagreement. Of course what follows here are my own personal thoughts and opinions.

“A guy is a boy by birth, a man by age, but a gentleman by choice.” [Anonymous]

Historically a gentleman was a title offered to those of a certain class or standing, usually financial. They were those men a step down from those in positions of nobility. It was a title generally offered to those men who were wealthy enough not to need to work but were not, themselves, nobles. A gentleman possessed a coat of arms and carried a sword. This began to slowly change even in the pre-Victorian eras to encompass a man’s manners and presentation, a change which the industrialization of the world and the evolution of politics increased in speed. The most well known period of ‘gentlemen and ladies’ is indeed the Victorian period. Many people, in looking for what defines a gentleman, look back to the 19th and early 20th centuries as a guide. In this modern period the lack of gentlemen is evidenced by the general lack of good taste and etiquette even considering the changing societal standards and behaviours. It is within groups like the Steampunk subculture where one will find the attributes of the gentleman being learned once more and being expressed into the world.

So what IS a gentleman, then? It is somewhat of a shopping list of characteristics but through this large handful of traits one may garner more than a few clues.

I shall begin with: a gentleman is not a gentle man, but one who is genteel. If you delve beneath the velvet surface of a gentleman you will find a core of solid steel. Do not mistake a gentle man for a gentleman in all cases for though a gentleman knows when to be gentle he also knows when to be strong. Never mistake his gentleness for timidity nor hesitation but know that he thinks before he acts and should you misjudge him you will see the fire and mettle within him.


“Courtesy is as much a mark of a gentleman as courage.” [Theodore Roosevelt]

The first and most visible part of being a gentleman is, of course, etiquette. A gentleman is polite and proper in action. Always. He does not curse nor swear for that is an indication that he does not have the vocabulary of a gentleman. In our modern age I may disagree with this as invective has become necessary for emphasis at times but one can be creative and need not scatter a speech with frequent and constant unnecessary swearing. I am still pondering this though I may fall on the side of agreeing. A gentleman does not lose his temper nor speak loudly. A gentleman Does not interrupt no matter how brilliant his response, always allowing others to complete their own statements. A gentleman understands etiquette whether it be with respect to the wearing of his hat, or when to properly sit and stand, or when to hold open a door or offer a seat, or when to help someone with their coat. He is civilized and well mannered at all times. He does not insult others nor their ideas. He is elegant, mannered, cultured and does try to have good taste; he is refined. That is a lot of “thou shalt nots” with a few “thou shalts” but there will be more of a balance as I progress.

“A real gentleman is as polite to a little girl as to a woman.” [Louisa May Alcott]

A gentleman is respectful not just to his elders but to all people. He is attentive to all, particularly those he is immediately dealing with and is aware of their needs. He does not inflict pain nor hurt. He is sensitive to himself, to others, and to the world around him. He is a patient man who does not judge quickly but does judge finally, even though he knows that a leopard can, in rare circumstance, change his spots. He does not laugh at the mistakes of others as a gentleman knows that mistakes are the best lessons in life, though he will offer assistance and correction as he is able. He does, however laugh. Often. And at himself as much as at life. He finds humour and beauty in many things.

“A gentleman has his eyes on all those present; he is tender toward the bashful, gentle toward the distant, and merciful toward the absent.” [Lawrence G. Lovasik]

The gentleman understands the balance of benefit between himself and others. He is not selfless nor selfish but walks that fine line between to ensure that all find what they need. One characteristic that I am still pondering is that a gentleman both forgives and forgets, though I believe that there are situations that warrant neither of these in rare cases when the insult or difficulty is constant, consistent and occurs repeatedly even when he works to correct it. One can only take the high road so often before looking for a road away to somewhere else. It does not benefit a gentleman to remain in a situation or place where he is discomfited. He does not cause stress and worry and does not accept it without thought towards its settling. While a gentleman should not seek social praise he does know how to accept a compliment when genuine and ensures that all of his are sincere. This is also true of apologies though it is my belief that a gentleman does not oft find himself in a position to apologize but rather addresses the issue, corrects the source of friction, the mistake, the error and moves onwards.

“The final test of a gentleman is his respect for those who can be of no possible service to him.” [William Lyon Phelps]

I believe that the true mark of a gentleman is acting so not only when others can see but also when no one is watching. He is a gentleman in formal social occasions as well as with close friends. He is a man who knows he could do better and actually does. He knows who and what he is and is comfortable with himself even as he strives to be and do better. This, in particular, is a very difficult thing to do as our modern age assaults us through media and society to believe that we are not whole and require assistance, therapy and serious amounts of support. A gentleman accepts support and help when he needs to, recognizing those times, and offers it without expectation, reluctance or resentment. He is modest but not overly so and contrary to what one may expect he does care what others think of him even though he does not define himself through or by the opinions of any one but only by his own.

“I find it sad that by not talking about who I sleep with, that makes me mysterious. There was a time when I would have been called a gentleman.” [Kevin Spacey]

A gentleman is discrete even when he is with his closest male friends. He does not rumour and he does not slander and he does not accept either from another. He does not talk solely of himself and he not only hears what others say, he also listens. He is not resentful nor suspicious nor depressing but rather focuses on ease and comfort both of himself and moreso that of others. A gentleman treats a lady as he would expect all men to treat a lady. He offers his arm and knows which side of the sidewalk to walk along when escorting a lady. He helps a lady with her seat, with doors, and with her coat. He will buy her flowers or a small gift, will offer her a small gesture with no expectation and for no obligatory reason though he will not try to purchase her attention or her affections.

“A gentleman would be ashamed should his deeds not match his words.” [Kong Fu Zi]

A gentleman is honest and lives a life of principle and integrity. As my grandfather used to say “A man comes into this world and leaves this world with only one thing: his word. Lose that and you have nothing.” A gentleman is trusting but not foolishly so. He works to live a life that is ‘good’ for both himself and for others. He is truthful but not in a mean nor hurtful manner. He is educated and does not attempt to pass himself as more than he is, knowing more than he knows, or as anything he is not. He is both honourable and chivalrous.

“The forbearing use of power does not only form a touchstone, but the manner in which an individual enjoys certain advantages over others is a test of a true gentleman.” [Robert E. Lee]

A gentleman utilizes his authority or any power that he has inoffensively. He often forebears or even abstains using any power he has. He does not use his education, his position, his knowledge, his strength nor even his common sense as a weapon. He never takes unfair advantage of power or weakness.

Well, dear readers, that is rather a long and somewhat complicated grocery list, is it not? But it is not something to be written down and checked off, rather it is meant to inspire you to thought and consideration, to reflect on your own approach, presentation, mindset and life and to consider the value of being a gentleman.

Am I a gentleman? I would like to think so yet during all of this research I have determined that there are indeed areas I need to look at again and behaviours I will need to consider, correct or restructure.

To end this lengthy bit of writing [I do know that I am quite wordy, a fault I do need to work on: simplification of expression] I shall leave you with two more quotes:

“From everything I have seen, felt, and observed, being a gentleman is a deep, unspoken, unrewarded commitment to genuine service and to to “thine own self” in search of “thine own truth” cohabiting in the same self respecting individual’s mind. It is unquenchable thirst for knowledge and growth, and it is commitment to the well being of one’s fellow creatures. It is being one with the music, the dance, the fight, the moment, or silence. But what it is, more than these, is the individual that thirsts for and emerges from these experiences – someone who seeks to understand their particular shard of what it means to be human, in full awareness of how little we will ever know, and in subdued delight for the opportunity to do the simplest of things. It is bravery in accepting the challenge of being something more than what you were, and it is the gradual realization that we are no less than our fathers, and that our sons are already our equals.
“Surely more important than what a gentleman has, is what he is, and more significant than what he is, must be what he truly aspires to become. It is a “voyage of self discovery” in the words of the great cosmologist and free-thinker, Carl Sagan. The courage to embark towards the unknown in any field is what makes a rugged gentleman worthy of knowing, in any century past or in any age to come. That is the very essence of what forms the bond between souls such as these – mutual respect for another who asks the questions that arise from within, and dares to see with eyes unclouded. Society’s definitions of what constitutes “cultured”, “adventure seeking”, “intellectual”, “romantic”, “considerate”, “tactful”, “rugged”, and yes – “a gentleman” have and will continue to evolve at a disturbingly rapid pace. But let the voyage of self discovery as a human being never cease, and defined as it may be in one’s own heart, let it continue to be something that every man has the courage to journey toward within himself, where the truest frontiers will always exist.” [Vincent Charles Nance.]

And my favourite quote, by far:

“My duty as a gentleman has never interfered with my pleasures in the smallest degree.” [Oscar Wilde]

H.A. Higgins-Keith

Class In Session

Good morning, mesdames et messieurs. I do hope that this night finds you well and, at this time, likely asleep.

An interesting thought that has been bouncing around within my skull of late has been one of classism: then and now. Everyone acknowledges the Victorian period one in which classism was rampant, strong, the way of life. There are occasional comments that in this modern world classism has nearly been defeated or destroyed or some-such but I find that this is not so, and others agree very loudly. With this in mind let us take a comparative look, shall we?

Yes indeed, the Victorian period was one of societal and economic classes. There were the lower, the middle and the upper classes. Additionally one could be in a ‘class’ based on employment particularly if it was familial/generational in nature. The rules were rigid but were also fairly well defined and this is an advantage that we do not currently enjoy. I did indeed say ‘enjoy’ and if you read the rest of this examination then you may see the sense of it, or I may just be misguided and in need of further education.

To get this particular burr out of the way being a woman was nearly as much a class as it was a gender. The Victorian period still saw women as person within the family unit who ran the home, raised the children and handled many of the social and economic responsibilities of the family. Within the upper class the role of women was somewhat broader. During this period more women were accepted into the working population but only in certain areas of employ.

Within nearly every class most jobs were almost perceived as hereditary. If your father was a clerk or a smith, a merchant or a machinist, a carriage painter or a mason it was oft expected that the son [usually the firstborn but often more than one] would enter the same or a related field. Apprenticeship, sometimes within the family, was often a way of life and on the passing of one’s father the son could and often did inherit the family business. The expectation was to have a life slightly better, slightly more comfortable than one’s parents. A member of the lower class would expect to remain in that class, working as a chimney sweep or a household servant as did his father before him. There was some movement among employments but there was nearly as much progression in a generational manner.

There were two or three easy ways to shift to a couple of positions that were both within the class system and outside of it: the military, the priesthood or through higher education.

Within the military there were two classes: those with commissions [the officers, usually drawn from the gentry] and the non-commissioned [your fighting man or soldier, and certain low levels of officers]. The allure of the military, particularly for the lower classes, was that it offered consistent access to food and a roof of some sort over one’s head as well as a possible pension if one lived out his term.

The priesthood did not have a recognizable class structure but advancement and access to perks was based as much on politics and social connections as the movement within any other class. During the Victorian period, however, it was not the sole source of education.

Universities grew remarkably during this time period and were taken advantage of by certain peoples which both created new members of the middle and upper classes as well as allowing people who knew how the system worked to shift their own position upwards; one very excellent example is the explosion of Scottish engineers during the Victorian age.

And knowing the system? Ah, here we come to the advantage. When there is a set of established and acknowledged rules then there are those who can find the little ways and means to skip around the system using these very rules and the loop holes that they do not completely cover or hide. There are many stories from the Victorian period of those of both genders who rose up in the ranks through fame or fortune, through the military or through education, or by learning the ‘rules’ and utilizing them. Of course it took risk and intelligence to even try and thus many did not, accepting their futures as their parents had before them.

And while everything I have said so far is true of periods preceding the Victorian it was during this particular age that the greatest movement happened, though even that was more an exception than a rule.

The Steampunk world truly takes this system and its advantages and spreads it wider and larger, introducing women adventurers and mechanics, spies and pilots and quite a number of ‘folk of humble means’ who became heroes.

Now let us examine the modern age. The classes still exist though in most parts of the world and very truly in North America the middle class has been nibbled away at until it is a slender portion of the population with a greater segment being defined as the upper class, to one extent or another, and a very large group now firmly ensconced in the lower class. Movement among the classes does still happen but it is more risky, more chaotic and a single person can rise and fall several times in their own life in a fairly easy manner, particularly in the falling.

The problem as I see it, and this is merely this writer’s own opinion, is that during the Victorian period each of the classes had their own rules, knew the rules of the other classes, and even if they were not written out [though in some cases some small publications did address these rules] they were there, they were accepted, and they were rather rigid. In our modern world it is really only the upper class that accepts that there are rules with the middle and lower classes rebelling through ignorance or denial. The rules are amorphous and poorly defined, subject to change usually at the whim of the upper class, and difficult to understand. Thus one can climb and claw upwards only to find that the cliff face has suddenly changed to a treacherous sheet of ice mid-scramble. It has become more of who you know and less of who you are, which is extremely evident when one compares the relative proportion of written contracts versus verbal/hand-shake agreements during the two periods and the pervasiveness of those employed in the legal fields in our current age versus those in Victorian times. Acceptance and trust have both lessened greatly though it’s a big of a ‘chicken and egg’ issue as to which came first, honestly. I think they’ve fed off each the other.

Like many other socio-political/economic topics that are focused on by various people and groups in the Steampunk community, such as gender roles [which I will touch on another day when my skin is thicker as I will no doubt be shouted loudly at], colonialism, imperialism, industrial advancements and other hot-button topics it must be noted that people do like to focus on the negative to the exclusion of the positive and I feel, myself and personally, that while the opportunities of the Victorian class system were not often nor well used there were some very strong advantages over the class system of today.

That and, given the nature of man, a truly classless system is a utopian ideal which will never work nor occur. But that is a topic which is part of a greater discussion and best left for another time.

H.A. Higgins-Keith

The Politics of the Thing

Good evening, my dear readers.

And again I find that I must apologize for weeks between my scribblings. My life out in the world of weather and people keeps me far too busy but do know I think of you few frequently and wonder what shall I write of next. Today’s topic comes from a discussion I have watched avidly on Facebook, and one that I have seen dance through conversations often in the last few years.

It began with this video: Abney Park’s new “Steampunk Revolution”
And a question about a “Steampunk Revolution.” Does politics belong in the Steampunk culture? Do we need focus on the socio-political or economic?

Let us begin by looking initially at the history of political involvement of some related subcultures as mentioned by some folk in the Facebook discussion thread.

Very few “movements” or groups have focused on political discussion, change and action particularly through music while becoming an acknowledged and lasting self-identified subculture until the 20th century. Previous to this political movements did indeed begin small scale but they peaked swiftly and after the change was effected they generally disappeared into the new mainstream culture.

The first and most obvious was the Hippie movement of the 1960s. With an identifiable message, a fashion and aesthetic and even involving and heavily focused on music as the world changed so too did the members of the hippie culture until now, in our current ‘age’, many Hippies are now working for ‘the man’ if not having become ‘the man’ themselves. While the music [and you will notice I return to this particular area often] did receive some airplay it was primarily presented through live shows and concerts and never made it into the clubs of that period.

A more aggressive movement was the Punk scene of the 1970s which Steampunk is often compared to because of the misfortune of the label, even though both groups do share some similarities: primarily the DIY nature of the scenes, the individuality of the fashion aesthetic and the rejection of the modern world and romanticizing of an alternate way of living. Punk music did indeed make it into the clubs though at that time it was, again, primarily through live shows. Punk has changed with the metamorphosis of the socio-political world and what is Punk now is not what was Punk then. Punks main focus for change was extremely anarchistic and an anarchy-based system will not work in the real world.

Closer to Steampunk and somewhat of a gap-bridge between that and Punk is the Goth movement. Goth began in the 80s from a literary origin [something I find that many do not remember or know] in a small group setting reminiscent of the salons of the Victorian/Edwardian periods [and before] and moved slowly as a snowball rolling downhill gathering speed and size. While never PRIMARILY a socio-political movement there always has been a large amount of discussion about current world events and situations, though in the last decade that has dropped off in favour of dressing appropriately and clubbing relentlessly. The music of the Goth subculture has indeed moved into the clubs as well as, in some instances, mainstream radio, television and film, and it has become more a part of the mainstream culture than any similar preceding group.

There are, however, differences in the four I am looking at in this bit of writing. The Hippie and Punk movements WERE movements more so than any other form of social grouping with a strong political message and an expiry date. Goth has become a subculture with all the facets and factions this involves. Steampunk is an aesthetic, primarily, and while there are subcultural elements it has yet to reach that stage. Also remember that Steampunk, as a building force, is relatively young compared to those social groups that have come before.

Now, to approach this from another angle: that of the Victorian age itself. Many wonder why Steampunk is focused on Great Britain during this period. First, may I remind people, that the entire age WAS named after the Queen of this small island country. And while England was not alone in the empire building game, she was joined by Germany, Holland, France, Spain, Portugal, Italy and Russia which are all countries primarily populated by Caucasians. Many forget about the expansion and empire building that was happening in Asia during this period but we in North America and Western Europe aren’t taught much of this during our history lessons in school. It is only natural, after all, that countries focus on their own demesne during the schooling of their young denizens. There was also a lot of change in all areas of life during the Victorian period: industry, politics, gender relations, race relations, religions, science, medicine, quality of life and on and on and on. And this change mostly revolved around Great Britain and Western Europe. The British Empire was the dominating force of the time, about where the United States of today is trying to be. Remember that the “Sun never set on the British Empire” and her influence spanned the entire globe.

For people of this area of the world, at this time, everything else WAS strange and exotic. Africa and South America still had unexplored vastness hidden in their core. The Asians had separated themselves from the non-Asians for centuries save small trade contact and thus they too were mysterious. Archaeology really gained steam during the Victorian era and so digging back into the past, exploring the unknown of the Middle East was also exotic and enticing. Ways of thought and lifestyle, approach to the world, this was all different from the Europeans and thus amazing and mystifying. And it still is today: most Asian cultures nurture an extremely different mindset and approach than does the Caucasian cultures. So why is this not still exotic now? Familiarity. During the 19th Century news traveled slowly and people even more so while in the present thanks to modern media and the internet information, ideas, pictures and huge chunks of life can flash around the world in parts of a second.

Socio-political discussion and movement, such as it is, has been tacked on to Steampunk by those who want it. Again, Steampunk is an aesthetic: it is an appearance, a feeling, a way of looking and creating. Yes, it can include a set of manners and mannerisms appropriate to the time period being romanticized. Indeed, it can involve a modern awareness of one’s personal approach to Steampunk. Surely, it can and does require a long and ongoing discussion as to what IS Steampunk which encompasses all the parts of our world including music and art, transportation and media, fashion and appearance and yes, also socio-political and economic discussion.

Does it need to? No more and likely less so than did Hippie and Punk and Goth. The wonder of Steampunk is that you can bring to it what you wish and take from it what you desire and if that includes discussion of a past and now gone social movement or similarities with today’s political milieu or how little our economic environment has changed then that is your bailiwick.

Personally, I read and enjoy the stories both historic and modern, I wear the clothing and admire the makers, I enjoy the toys and the entertainments but I have the mind and the approach of a modern gentleman, thank you, and wish for everyone to dance on a level dancefloor [and in my own small ways do what I am able to, to level out that dancefloor a tiny bit at a time]. Yes, I shall continue to point out parts of history that others seem to enjoy ignoring or glossing over and I do enjoy a rousing discussion but my only advice is this: find in Steampunk what you enjoy and enjoy it and if it’s not for you then do find a hobby or movement that stirs your passions.

Is there a Steampunk revolution? Do we need one? Well, all I can say is that I am grabbing my tophat and off to sit with friends over a drink and see where the discussion goes [which is ALWAYS to interesting lands no matter what the topic].

And as a little addendum I must note that I have known of very, very few non-Caucasian members of the Punk or Goth subcultures in North America. There are a few, but they are in a very tiny minority.

H.A. Higgins-Keith